Exploring the lure of Jaffna by Melina Jaimon
The next morning I was joined by my friend Leona and together we explored the town with our two guides, Nayana and Hareenjeef in truly local style on motorbikes! As we rode out of town and to the interior, the ruined buildings were a common sight, together with the famous palmyrah palms.
The policemen and the army personnel were numerous, walking around town and going on their rounds. Riding along passing signboards that indicated 'de-mining sites, no trespassers and anyone intruding would be dealt with', questions popped in our minds as to whether we were aptly insured to enjoy the trip to Jaffna!
Our first stop was the LTTE heroes' cemetery in Kopay. The cemetery is high maintenance, to say the least. A handful of people were still working digging more graves and pulling out the weeds. The flag with the LTTE emblem was flying high.
From Kopay it was the Nallur Kovil. One of the biggest kovils in Asia, the sheer size and the majestic beauty of the kovil overwhelms anyone. The intricate drawings and the colourful ceiling bear witness to a great work of cultural art.
Onward we went to the Jaffna market in search of the famous Jaffna mangoes, even though it was off season. Though we did find some, they weren't up to standard so we left disappointed.
The Jaffna University was the next stop. The university grounds were vibrant with life and students were everywhere.
While our tour guides were getting tired showing us around, we two were enjoying ourselves sightseeing the town. Finally it was time for lunch, so Hotel Rolex it was, as recommended by the locals. Picky we could not be. However, the food was worth it, though a bit too spicy for me.
Back on track it was the Jaffna Public Library which was, unfortunately, closed. However, we did get a chance to see the Jaffna Fort. Built by the Dutch in 1680 it is said to be one of the best forts architecturally in Asia. The main entrance is closed due to security reasons, but then again so are a lot of places closed due to security reasons.
Walking around town is relatively safe. We had been prepared for the worst. We did not expect such good lodgings as we did in the inn we stayed at and the two of us were safely able to walk around town, minus the cat calls, whistles and lewd remarks that are frequent in Colombo. In fact, we felt much safer there than we did in Colombo.
We came across a supermarket in the heart of the city. It had everything and more than you would find in a supermarket in Colombo.
Motorbikes put aside, we hired a van the next day to visit Nagadeepa, a firm favourite among pilgrims. The drive seemed endless and yet again we were struck by the beauty of the peninsula. Though ravaged now, it's hard to escape its potential for tourism.
I was told it was to be a ferry ride from the pier to Nagadeepa but Hareenjeef said it was a launch. In the end before we arrived at the pier we sorted it out and we were not to go on a ferry but in a boat. Packed like sardines we arrived at Nagadeepa.
The beach was beautiful, the shades of blue of the calm sea was so inviting. After a quick inspection of the kovil we walked to the temple. The temperature was high. By this time we were quite used to being asked for our IDs and our whereabouts in town.
Speaking of issues faced by the people in Jaffna, many said that they doubt if there ever will be peace in Jaffna. They said that the peace talks would continue but hardly anything would be done about it.
Most families in the town have at least one family member abroad who sends money in order to minimize the cost of living in the town. Even though they go about their daily business, their eyes speak of a silent uncertainty.
The destroyed buildings are everywhere, they seem to stand like sentinels so that the people will never forget the ravages of war which has scarred them and continues to do so.
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